Writing a watch condition report

Most watch disputes come down to expectations: the buyer imagined one watch and received another. A condition report closes that gap before the sale. It describes a specific watch, part by part, in terms a buyer can check against photos and, eventually, against the watch itself. It takes a few minutes per watch, and it's one of the best habits a dealer can have.

Why condition reports matter

• They set expectations. A buyer who's read that the clasp has desk diving marks isn't surprised by them.
• They prevent disputes. A written, dated description, matched to your photos, is the best answer to a not-as-described claim.
• They save time. The questions buyers ask about condition are predictable. A report answers them before they're asked.
• They build trust. Precise descriptions, including faults, signal a dealer who isn't hiding anything.

Go part by part

Work through the watch in the same order every time, so nothing is missed.

• Case. Scratches, dents, and dings; whether the case has been polished, and if so how the edges and brushing look; any engraving.
• Bezel. Rotation and click action on a rotating bezel, fading or marks on the insert, and whether it's original.
• Crystal. Scratches, chips, and whether it's the correct type for the reference.
• Dial and hands. Condition of the printing, marks, spots, or patina, and the state of the lume. Say whether the dial and hands are original if you know, and say so if you don't.
• Crown and pushers. Screw-down action, winding, and setting.
• Bracelet or strap. Stretch, wear, the clasp's function, and how many links are included.
• Movement. Whether it runs, winds, and sets; how it performs on a timegrapher if you've tested it; any complication that doesn't work.
• Service history. When it was last serviced and by whom, if known, and whether paperwork is available.

Originality and modifications

Be explicit about parts that aren't original to the watch, such as a replacement dial, a service crown, or an aftermarket bracelet. Replaced parts are common, particularly on older watches, and many buyers accept them when they're disclosed. What they don't accept is finding out afterwards.

If you're unsure whether a part is original, say that. "Dial appears original, not independently verified" is far more useful to a buyer than confident wording that turns out to be wrong.

What's included

List every item going with the watch: box, outer box, papers, warranty card, manuals, service receipts, extra links, spare straps, and tags. Note the condition of the box and papers too, since they affect value. The box and papers article explains why.

Say what you haven't checked

A condition report is only as reliable as its limits are clear. If you haven't opened the caseback, pressure tested the case, or verified the movement's condition, say so. Avoid implying checks you haven't done. It's the difference between a report that protects you and one that becomes evidence against you.

Grades as a summary, not a substitute

Grades such as "excellent" or "very good" are useful as a headline, but they're interpreted differently by different buyers. Use them, if at all, after the specific description, and make sure the description supports the grade. A buyer who reads the details and sees the photos can judge the grade for themselves.

Where the report goes

• In the listing, alongside photos that show what the report describes. The photography article covers the shots that support it.
• With the sale paperwork, referenced on the invoice or bill of sale so it forms part of what was agreed.
• In your records, filed with the watch so you can show what you described and when.

The paperwork kit's condition report generator walks through these sections and produces a document you can attach to the sale.