How it works
- 1List your stockA name, what you have in it, and the date it arrived, for each watch.
- 2Set your cost of moneyAn annual rate: the interest on borrowed money, or the return you'd expect elsewhere.
- 3Choose when stock counts as agedThe number of days after which you want a watch flagged.
- 4Work the oldest firstWatches sort by time in stock, with carrying cost to date and aged pieces highlighted.
Why aging deserves a regular look
Slow inventory rarely announces itself. A watch that was a fine buy can sit quietly while the money in it earns nothing, and without a list sorted by time in stock it's easy not to notice until much later. Reviewing your stock by age on a schedule catches slow movers while you still have room to reprice or move them. The guide to moving aged inventory covers what to do next.
What carrying cost to date tells you
Carrying cost is what the money tied up in a watch has cost you so far, at the annual rate you set. It's a sunk cost in one sense, but it tells you two useful things: how much of your original margin the wait has already consumed, and which pieces are costing you most to keep. The guide to carrying cost explains how to choose a rate.
Common questions
Where is my list saved?
In your own browser, on this device. Nothing is sent to us. Clearing your browser's data for this site removes it, so export a copy if you want to keep one.
What rate should I use?
Use what your money costs you: a credit line's interest rate if you borrow, or the return you'd expect from putting the cash into another deal if you don't. Consistency matters more than precision.
When should a watch count as aged?
When it has sat longer than similar pieces usually take you to sell. There's no universal cutoff, so pick a number that fits the references you deal in and adjust it as you learn.
Tell me when new tools go live
New calculators, guides and paperwork, as they ship, plus a few short follow-ups on using this one.